Support

Yes of course we accept credit cards for your convenience -
a small charge of 1.75% will be charged for the use of credit cards.

Click here to download a copy of our Brochure, or click here where you can request a brochure to be mailed to you.

You should follow our recommended cleaning procedures.

Do not let people walk on your floor with high heeled shoes.

Glue or tape felt pieces underneath furniture corners, chair legs etc.. these can be purchased of course, or you can just make your own.

Do not spray any aerosol sprays until the polyurethane has fully cured - approximately 7 days.

Do NOT let moving people drag your furniture across your floor - use pads/felt squares or carry everything into place, you will scratch the surface or dent your floor, this occurs mostly with refrigerators and dishwashers.

Most timber floors require minimum maintenance, if looked after correctly.

Generally - a damp mop does the trick (you should not use a wet mop) 1/2 cup of methylated spirits in a bucket of hot water will suffice as a cleaning solution.

Other than that, there are some great timber floor cleaners on the market - we can point you in the right direction.

The ones you buy at the supermarket often contain silicone which is a no-no for timber so stick with meths for best results..

For oiled floors - never use water, follow manufacturers specifications for these surfaces.

Click here to view our range of floor care products

Dust/Dust Free: We use top of the line sanding machines with dust collecting equipment. Our sanders will endeavour to clean the dust away by vacuuming down surfaces.

However, it is virtually impossible to totally eliminate dust from the job. At an extra cost we can offer a dust free service with specialized equipment. This equipment is recommended for gymnasiums/restaurants/bars/schools/shops & offices, places that the public frequent and the process of removing dust would impair the operator to open immediately.

For all other situations we can recommend a cleaning service.

If you want your floor to look the best it can, it is imperative there are no more trades left working on your project while your floor receives it's final coat. If deadlines are all over the place, it's best to get the timber down, give it one or two coats then leave it till everyone is finished their work to do the final coat.

Silicone found on the foot wear of plumbers and glaziers can be a problem as it causes a reaction in the polyurethane. Make these tradespeople or your project manager aware of this.

Carpet should not be laid till at least 24 hours after the final coat is applied to your timber, as the fibres float through the air and land in the drying polyurethane.

Once the final coat is applied, you must stay off your floor until the floor sander has advised you may walk on it again, even opening windows and doors can blow dust in to land in the coat before it dries. Don't be tempted to walk on it if it looks dry enough, foot prints have to be sanded out!

You must plan to allow at least 24 hours before you move back in to your house, if you move back in before the polyurethane is fully cured (7 days), then you must follow our instructions below.

You can download our full terms and conditions HERE

Timber flooring requires very little maintenance, but there are a few things you can do to ensure its longevity.

Concrete slabs in new homes and sometimes older homes can often be too moist to lay timber - or for that matter any other floor covering. Your concrete will be tested using a commercial moisture meter.

There are several solutions if your concrete slab is too moist:

1. Plank on Ply: We will glue and nail plywood directly to the leveled concrete surface, then applying the timber by secret nailing.
2. Directly on to concrete: A moisture vapour barrier will be applied to the levelled slab, maybe twice according to the moisture level of the concrete. Timber is then glued with powerful industrial quality adhesives and "weighted" while glue cures.
3. On joists/Battens: This is where battens or joists are fixed to the levelled concrete - and the timber is then nailed to the battens/joists.

Timber is a live product - it expands and contracts according to weather conditions and temperature, to achieve the best results it is advised that timber must be acclimatized in closed internal room conditions so the boards can reach their appropriate moisture level for at least 1-2 weeks prior to laying.

Moisture-cured Polyurethane is a solvent-base Polyurethane that is more durable and more moisture resistant than other surface finishes. Moisture-cured Polyurethane comes in non-yellowing and in ambering types. Curing of this type of finish is by absorbing minute quantities of moisture vapor from the air, which causes them to dry and harden.

Water-based Polyurethane is a water-borne urethane with a blend of synthetic resins, plasticizers and other film forming ingredients that produces a durable surface that is moisture-resistant. These finishes are clear and non-yellowing and are different sheen levels. They have a milder odor than oil-modified finishes have and they dry in about two to three hours. Water-based Polyurethanes are generally more expensive.

A premium product - BonaKemi waterborne Polyurethane has been a tremendous success - it is extremely resistant to wear and provides a clear natural apperance. The product is available in 3 gloss levels.

A natural alternative to Polyurethane it's an enviromentally sound choice. Pallmann Magic Oil is an oil-wax combination that leaves an open, breathing and diffusive surface finish. Due to the wax content, a uniform matt, velvety surface is produced. With Magic Oil 2K Update, thanks to the hardener component, very rapid drying is achieved. This rapid drying, even in extremely heavy wear areas (catering industry, hotels, business premises, offices...) allows renovation work to be completed in the shortest possible time, with no reduction in resistance to mechanical wear or chemicals once allowed to dry overnight. The improved density of the cross-linking action results in a stronger water and dirt repellant surface that cannot be achieved with 1-component parquet oils. Dirt removal compares with that on lacquered parquet/wood floors.

Blonding involves colouring the polyurethane then applying to the timber, each coat making the timber whiter and whiter.

This involves a chemical reaction applied to the timber which then soaks into the timber to achieve the bleaching. Bleaching looks fantastic and really brings out the markings in the timber. Bleaching is a more expensive and time consuming option because of the chemicals used and time required to achieve the desired result. It should be noted that the process of bleaching softens and swells the fibres of the timber making it more susceptable to indentation and scratching.